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Colossal flood action has scooped out beach balls of rock from the sandstone
walls and wedged logs thirty feet overhead. Slot canyons are the last place you
want to be during a desert thunderstorm. The sky directly above the canyon might
be clear, but a cloudburst in the watershed even ten or twenty miles away can
maul and drown unwary canyoneers. In a flood, the rain falls faster than the
ground can absorb it. In the eastern United States, it might take the ground
days or weeks to reach saturation and for rivers to flood after many inches or
even feet of rain. In the desert, the hard sunbaked earth acts like fired
clay-tile shingles, and a flood can start from a fraction of an inch of rain
that might come in five minutes from a single storm cloud. Chased off the
impermeable hardscrabble, the downpour creates a surging deluge. Runoff gathers
from converging drainages and quickly becomes a foot of water in a
forty-foot-wide section of the canyon. That same amount of water becomes a
catastrophic torrent in a confined space. Where the walls narrow to four feet,
the flood turns into a ten-foot-high chaos of churning mud and debris that moves
boulders, sculpts canyons, lodges drift material in constrictions, and kills
anything that can't climb to safety.
In this meandering section of the narrow canyon, silt residue from the most
recent flood coats the walls to a height of twelve feet above the beachlike
floor, and decades of scour marks overlay the rosy and purplish striations of
exposed rock. The undulating walls distort the flat lines of the strata and grab
my attention in one spot where the opposing walls dive in front of each other at
a double-hairpin meander. I stop to take a few photographs. I note that the time
stamp is a minute slow compared to my watch: The digital camera's screen says it
is 2:41 P.M., Saturday afternoon, April 26, 2003.
I bob my head to the music as I walk another twenty yards and come to a
series of three chockstones and scramble over them. Then I see another five
chockstones, all the size of large refrigerators, wedged at varying heights off
the canyon floor like a boulder gauntlet. It's unusual to see so many
chockstones lined up in such evenly spaced proximity. With two feet of clearance
under the first suspended chockstone, I have to crawl under it on my belly --
the only time I've ever had to get this low in a canyon -- but there is no
alternative. The next chockstone is wedged a little higher off the ground. I
stand and brush myself off, then squat and duck to pass under. A crawl on all
fours and two more squat-and-duck maneuvers, and I've passed the remaining
chockstones. The defile is over sixty feet deep at this point, having dropped
fifty feet below the sand domes in two hundred feet of linear distance.
I come to another drop-off. This one is maybe eleven or twelve feet high, a
foot higher and of a different geometry than the overhang I descended ten
minutes ago. Another refrigerator chockstone is wedged between the walls, ten
feet downstream from and at the same height as the ledge. It gives the space
below the drop-off the claustrophobic feel of a short tunnel. Instead of the
walls widening after the drop-off, or opening into a bowl at the bottom of the
canyon, here the slot narrows to a consistent three feet across at the lip of
the drop-off and continues at that width for fifty feet down the canyon.
Sometimes in narrow passages like this one, it's possible for me to stem my body
across the slot, with my feet and back pushing out in opposite directions
against the walls. Controlling this counterpressure by switching my hands and
feet on the opposing walls, I can move up or down the shoulder-width crevice
fairly easily as long as the friction contact stays solid between the walls and
my hands, feet, and back. This technique is known as stemming or chimneying; you
can imagine using it to climb up the inside of a chimney.
From Between A Rock and a Hard Place by Aron Ralston, pages 1-30. Copyright © 2004 by Aron Ralston. All rights reserved, no part of this excerpt maybe reproduced without specific permission from the publisher.
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