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We'd first met in Ceylon (Sri Lanka) during the Second World War
and were married in September 1946. In preparation for living
with a new husband on a limited government income, I decided I'd
better learn how to cook. Before our wedding, I took a
bride-to-be's cooking course from two Englishwomen in Los
Angeles, who taught me to make things like pancakes. But the
first meal I ever cooked for Paul was a bit more ambitious:
brains simmered in red wine! I'm not quite sure why I picked
that particular dish, other than that it sounded exotic and
would be a fun way to impress my new husband. I skimmed over the
recipe, and figured it wouldn't be too hard to make. But the
results, alas, were messy to look at and not very good to eat.
In fact, the dinner was a disaster. Paul laughed it off, and we
scrounged up something else that night. But deep down I was
annoyed with myself, and I grew more determined than ever to
learn how to cook well.
In our first year as young marrieds, we lived in Georgetown, in
Washington, D.C., in a small white clapboard house on Olive
Avenue. While Paul worked on mounting exhibits for the State
Department, I worked as a file clerk. In the evening, I would
approach the stove armed with lofty intentions, the Joy of
Cooking or Gourmet magazine tucked under my arm, and
little kitchen sense. My meals were satisfactory, but they took
hours of laborious effort to produce. I'd usually plop something
on the table by 10:00 p.m., have a few bites, and collapse into
bed. Paul was unfailingly patient. But years later he'd admit to
an interviewer: "Her first attempts were not altogether
successful. . . . I was brave because I wanted to marry Julia. I
trust I did not betray my point of view." (He did not.)
In the winter of 1948, Paul was offered a job running the Visual
Presentation Department for the United States Information
Service (USIS) in Paris, and I tagged along. I had never been to
Europe, but once we had settled in Paris, it was clear that, out
of sheer luck, I had landed in a magical cityone that is still
my favorite place on earth. Starting slowly, and then with a
growing enthusiasm, I devoted myself to learning the language
and the customs of my new home.
In Paris and later in Marseille, I was surrounded by some of the
best food in the world, and I had an enthusiastic audience in my
husband, so it seemed only logical that I should learn how to
cook la cuisine bourgeoisegood, traditional French home
cooking. It was a revelation. I simply fell in love with that
glorious food and those marvelous chefs. The longer we stayed
there, the deeper my commitment became.
In collaborating on this book, Alex Prud'homme and I have been
fortunate indeed to have spent hours together telling stories,
reminiscing, and thinking out loud. Memory is selective, and we
have not attempted to be encyclopedic here, but have focused on
some of the large and small moments that stuck with me for over
fifty years.
Alex was born in 1961, the year that our first book,
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, which I wrote with
Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle, was published. How
appropriate, then, that he and I should work together on this
volume, which recounts the making of that book.
Our research has been aided immeasurably by a thick trove of
family letters and datebooks kept from those days, along with
Paul's photographs, sketches, poems, and Valentine's Day cards.
Paul and his twin brother, Charlie Child, a painter who lived in
Bucks County, Pennsylvania, wrote to each other every week or
so. Paul took letter writing seriously: he'd set aside time for
it, tried to document our day-to-day lives in a journalistic
way, and usually wrote three to six pages a week in a beautiful
flowing hand with a special fountain pen; often he included
little sketches of places we'd visited, or photos (some of which
we have used in these pages), or made mini-collages out of
ticket stubs or newsprint. My letters were usually one or two
pages, typed, and full of spelling mistakes, bad grammar, and
exclamation points; I tended to focus on what I was cooking at
the time, or the human dramas boiling around us. Written on thin
pale-blue or white airmail paper, those hundreds of letters have
survived the years in very good shape.
Excerpted from My Life in France by Julia Child with Alex Prud'homme Copyright © 2006 by Julia Child with Alex Prud'homme. Excerpted by permission of Knopf, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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