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The Story of an African Childhood
by Robyn Scott
Grandpa glared at us. "Stand behind your father if you're
scared," he bellowed.
At least as scared of Grandpa's disapproval, Lulu, Damien,
and I reluctantly slid off the sofa and squatted behind Dad,
who,
with his legs as far back as possible, leaned forward and began
to
pivot the chair slowly sideways.
Holding our breath, poised to flee, we peered under the rising
base.
A black creature, a little smaller than my hand, crouched
statue-like
on the concrete floor. At one end were pincers, evil- looking
but tiny compared with the fat, hairy tail, sharply pointed at
the
tip, which curled up and forward over the wide body. Perfect,
regular seams joined shiny black segments of the tail, body, and
pincers, making it seem more like an exquisitely made machine
than a real animal.
Dad whistled. "Black hairy thick- tailed scorpion," he said,
emphasizing each word. "If you can't see a snake on your first
day, this is as good as it gets."
"Could easily kill one of you chaps," added Grandpa.
But the scorpion didn't seem to be in the mood for killing
anyone. It took off with ungraceful speed, scuttling toward the
wall, where it disappeared under a bookcase. Dad offered to try
and catch it, but Grandpa said there were so many in the house
already that Dad should just "leave the little bugger where he
is."
Botswana is more than two- thirds desert. Selebi Grandpa's
home and our destination on that first, bewildering day
just before Christmas in 1987 is in the other third, which gets
just
enough rain to miss out on the glamorous distinction of desert,
and
much too little to settle the ubiquitous red dust or support any
but
the hardiest of plants. Except for a few months of the year,
that
is, when the occasional storm cloud bursts and fat raindrops
puff
dust into the air and pummel sheets of water that flood the
baked
ground. In a good rainy season, the dry riverbeds that thread
their way east to the Limpopo River might flow. Often they
don't.
For nine months of the year, it is hot; for the rest, it is dry.
There is no time of year when it is not hot or dry.
A hundred and fifty kilometers from Selebi, the borders of
Botswana, South Africa, and Zimbabwe meet at the country's
easternmost tip. Here the Limpopo peels away from Botswana
and heads toward the Indian Ocean. Botswana is securely
landlocked.
At any point in the country you are at least four hundred
kilometers from the sea. But making up for the absence of sea
and
lakes, spilling hundreds of kilometers across the dry sands in
the
north, lies the world's largest inland delta.
The bush surrounding the exquisite Okavango Delta, the "jewel
of the Kalahari," teems with all of Africa's biggest and most
impressive
wildlife.
The bush around Selebi teems with cows, goats, and donkeys.
There are few fences, and the animals wander mostly unimpeded
across the flat land. They are frequently killed on the roads,
hit by
local cars or huge trucks passing through on their long journeys
between southern and central Africa. The land is overgrazed, and
any lions, elephants, and rhinos that weren't hunted down left
long
ago in search of places with more food and fewer people. Only
the small, dangerous animals, like snakes and scorpions, which
don't mind living alongside humans, are left. For by Botswana
standards a country the size of France with fewer than two
million
people the region is populous. Cattle posts of five to twenty
huts are sprinkled across the bush, and there are several bigger
villages, the largest of which have electricity and running
water.
Selebi, which appears on maps as Selebi- Phikwe, consists of
just three old houses and several concrete slabs that were once
houses. A relic from the early years of the nearby copper and
nickel mine, Selebi is the ghost part of town. By the late
1980s,
when my parents abruptly decided to return to Botswana
ending a peripatetic decade that had spanned South Africa,
England,
and New Zealand, and produced three children Grandpa
Ivor and Granny Betty had long been Selebi's sole residents.
Excerpted from Twenty Chickens for a Saddle (chapter 1, pages 1-14) by Robyn Scott. Reprinted by arrangement with The Penguin Press, a member of Penguin Group (USA), Inc. Copyright (c) Robyn Scott, 2008.
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