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The Story of an African Childhood
by Robyn Scott
The school's students included Grandpa's own sons, who
made yearly visits to Botswana during their school and then
university holidays. By the time he came to teach Jonathan, his
youngest, Grandpa's infamously scant reserves of patience had
been severely depleted. He was by then living in Selebi, where
he'd moved in the early 1970s, with the start of the mine. He
instructed Jonathan in the Piper Colt. The Aeronca after a
forced landing due to engine failure was by then languishing
in a farmer's field, where Grandpa had simply abandoned the old
plane, surrounded by cattle, on the dirt.
After six hours' flying time, father and son were barely
speaking. Jonathan protested angrily at Grandpa's intolerance
of mistakes. "Fly it yourself, then," yelled Grandpa. Jonathan
did, making several uneventful solo flights. Then one day, as he
touched down and taxied in toward the Selebi airport building, a
whirling tunnel of dirt and leaves sped across the bush toward
the
runway. Unsure how to handle a dust devil, Jonathan was caught
at the wrong angle and the wrong speed. The plane flipped
several
times, landing upside down on the grass beside the tar.
Jonathan escaped with a few cuts and scratches. The Colt, a
wreck, was left there, as it landed, an unsettling welcome for
new
visitors to Selebi- Phikwe. After many months, Grandpa finally
got round to towing it away, with the intention of repairing the
battered fuselage and wings. He never did. The day we arrived in
Botswana, the little airplane lay under the thorn tree in a
sorrier
state than it had been in, all those years ago, when a bruised
and
bewildered Jonathan had crawled out.
Scattered around the wreck stood another small shed, an empty
kraal with a ramp for loading cattle and two lopsided trailers
the
same trailers that Grandpa Ivor had lived in, decades earlier,
in
his first bush camps. A short distance away was one other house:
a small, squat building, its walls barely recognizable as once
white, its broken windows gaping forlornly. A little farther
away,
hidden by a clump of trees from the main houses, was an even
smaller, equally neglected old building where Grandpa said his
staff sometimes stayed.
Encircling the houses, trailers, sheds, and plane was a rickety
barbed wire boundary fence. Beyond this, in every direction, was
bush, stretching endlessly and almost uniformly until it became
sky at some faraway point on the fl at horizon, interrupted only
by
a few distant purple hills.
That was all.
The only reminder that anyone else still even existed was
a railway track that ran parallel to the fence behind Grandpa's
house. Every few hours, passing close enough to rattle the
kitchen
windows and suspend all conversation, an old black steam train
chugged along the line. If the driver saw us waving, he'd wave
back, a loud hoot piercing the din of the passing ore- piled
carriages.
Then the train would rattle out of sight, the lone man in the
caboose
shrinking to a blur, and the bush's gentle noises resurfacing.
After sunset, shadowy figures shoveling coal into the flames
twisted and straightened across the red glow of the furnace.
That train was to become a beloved part of our Botswana.
The deafening clatter, the black smoke streaming into bright
blue sky, the flame- lit passage across the darkness sounds
that
would become as comforting as the calls of dawn francolins,
dusk owls, and the ever- tinkling cowbells, an occasional
dramatic
presence that, like the poisonous creatures that slithered,
crouched, and scuttled everywhere, would soon be utterly natural
and reassuring.
That was later, though. Come nightfall on our first day, the
lingering image of the furnace only deepened the sense of
wondrous
danger, of a surreal place in which the strange and the
fierce had collided, oddly, where barely believable reality slid
effortlessly into the imaginary.
Excerpted from Twenty Chickens for a Saddle (chapter 1, pages 1-14) by Robyn Scott. Reprinted by arrangement with The Penguin Press, a member of Penguin Group (USA), Inc. Copyright (c) Robyn Scott, 2008.
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