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The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef
by Gabrielle Hamilton
My parents seemed incredibly special and outrageously handsome
to me then. I could not have boasted of them more or said my name,
first and last together, more proudly, to show how it directly linked me
to them. I loved that our mother was French and that she had given
me that heritage in my very name. I loved telling people that she had
been a ballet dancer at the Met in New York City when she married
my father. I loved being able to spell her long French name, M-A-D-E-L-E-I-N-E, which had exactly as many letters in it as my own. My
mother wore the sexy black cat-eye eyeliner of the era, like Audrey
Hepburn and Sophia Loren, and I remember the smell of the sulphur
every morning as she lit a match to warm the tip of her black wax
pencil. She pinned her dark hair back into a tight, neat twist every
morning and then spent the day in a good skirt, high heels, and an
apron that I have never seen her without in forty years. She lived in
our kitchen, ruled the house with an oily wooden spoon in her hand,
and forced us all to eat dark, briny, wrinkled olives, small birds we
would have liked as pets, and cheeses that looked like they might well
bear Legionnaire's Disease.
Her kitchen, over thirty years ago, long before it was common,
had a two-bin stainless steel restaurant sink and a six-burner Garland
stove. Her burnt orange Le Creuset pots and casseroles, scuffed and
blackened, were constantly at work on the back three burners cooking
things with tails, claws, and marrow-filled bones - whatever was
budgeted from our dad's sporadic and mercurial artist's income - that
she was stewing and braising and simmering to feed our family of
seven. Our kitchen table was a big round piece of butcher block
where we both ate and prepared casual meals.
My mother knew how to get everything comestible from a shin
or neck of some animal; how to use a knife, how to cure a cast-iron
pan. She taught us to articulate the "s" in salade nicoise and the soup
vichyssoise, so that we wouldn't sound like other Americans who
didn't know that the vowel "e" after the consonant "s" in French
means that you say the "s" out loud.
And yet I remember the lamb roast as my father's party. I recall it
was really his gig. With an art degree from Rhode Island School of
Design on his office wall, two union cards - stagehands and scenic
artists - in his wallet, five able-bodied children, a French wife, and a
photograph torn from a magazine of two Yugoslav guys roasting a
lamb over a pit, he created a legendary party - a feast that almost two
hundred people came to every year from as far away as the townhouses
of New York City and as near as our local elementary school.
My dad could not cook at all. He was then a set designer for theatrical
and trade shows and he had a "design and build" studio in
Lambertville - the town where he himself had grown up, the town
where his own father had been the local country doctor. We kids
were forever running into people who'd say, "Your granddaddy delivered
all three of my sons!" Or, "Your granddaddy drove a Cadillac!
One of the very few cars at the time in Lambertville!"
After growing up in that small rural town, my dad, the youngest
son, went away to college and then to art school. He came back with
a mustache, a green Mustang, and a charcoal gray suit and installed
himself there, in his hometown. In 1964, he bought the old skating
rink at the dead end of South Union Street with its enormous domed
ceiling and colossal wooden floor. In that building he started his studio,
an open work space where scenery as big as the prow of a ship
could be built, erected, painted, and then broken down and shipped
off to the city for load-in. Every year when he got the job to build the
sets for the Ringling Bros. and Barnum and Bailey Circus there, we
would go after school and zip around on the dollies, crashing into the
legs of the chain-smoking union carpenters and scenic artists who
were busy with band saws and canvas and paint. We would run up and
down mountains of rolled black and blue velour, laid out like in a car-
pet store, and dip our hands into oil drums full of glitter. Prying back
the lid on a fifty-gallon barrel of silver glitter - the kind of barrel that
took two men and a hand truck to wheel into the paint supply room
of the shop - and then shoving your hands down into it up to your elbows
is an experience that will secure the idea in your heart for the
rest of your life that your dad is, himself, the greatest show on earth.
Excerpted from Blood, Bones & Butter by Gabrielle Hamilton. Copyright © 2011 by Gabrielle Hamilton. Excerpted by permission of Random House. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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